Finally in the Mountains

Today we did an acclimatization hike up into the mountains to check out some rock we were told might be good first ascent potential. Sadly the rock was not that good and had no cracks that would allow protection. Still, it was really cool to get up there.

Hiking into the Ishinca Valley

Tomorrow we go up to the Quebrada (Quechua word for valley) Paron. We have food for a week but think but plan to do the climb in 4-5 days. We will take a collectivo which is sort of a taxi where they cram a ton of people into, up to a town called Caraz and from there hire a taxi to go up the valley. We will then hire a porter to help us carry a load up a trail for 3 hours to basecamp. Our goal is a large 2000ft face of granite called la esfinge (the sphinx). From there we will spend a few more days going up higher gradually to acclimitize and then try to do the route all in one day topping out at 5300m (17,400ft). We are allowing for a few days extra before and after and then will hike out and come back to Huaraz in time for Peru´s version of the 4th of July.

We are really excited to finally get things underway although we have also really been enjoying the 3rd world city life.

Andrew and some fresh Guinea Pigs for the Barbie

I am not missing anything yet except for my girlfriend. Hope all is well with all of you back in the states and pray to the mountain gods for good weather for us.

I´ll report back in about a week.

Hasta Luego

Settling in

Andrew and I are settling in nicely. We can get around town pretty well and have even been mixing with the locals. We have been eating out every meal and have found a couple of places where you can get a bowl of soup, rice and chicken, and a drink for 4 soles or about $US 1.60. I still haven´t eaten the guinea pig yet but so far the food has all been pretty decent and no signs of sickness yet.

Pollo and Cui

Chicken anyone?

Last night we were lured into a bar with the offer of free pisco sours. It was a cool little rasta themed place that had evidentally just opened. One of the owners sang live to salsa tracks and was really good. We met a really cool couple from London that have been traveling all over the world since last September. Many drinks and a little dancing later Andrew and I headed back home.

Andrew enjoys some great live music with Albert

We have to ring the hostel-keeper to let us in but I guess she doesn´t stay up past midnight. So I do what any inebriated climber would do and climbed onto the roof. Unfortunately I got a nice gash on my hand from that little stunt but think I will survive. I bought some antibiotics today just in case we get sick in the mountains or if my cut starts to look infected.

Today Andrew and I secured supplies for carrying into the mountains. Tomorrow we are doing an acclimatization hike and are going to check out some possibilities for new routes in the Quebrada Ishinca (Quebrada is the Quechua word for valley).

Day 2 in Peru

Greetings friends,
Well I created this blog a few years back and really didn't get around to posting anything but am now reviving as it will just be easier to forward you this link when I make updates.

Andrew and I had a snag free trip into Lima yesterday. We took a taxi to the bus station and then milled about Lima for the afternoon. It was actually much less crazy than the guidebooks all said it would be. We did stand out as the only gringos we saw all day but had a good time.

In the airport with our expedition sized pile-o-luggage.

A few nice Peruvian beverages

Last night we took an overnight bus to Huaraz and arrived at 7:30am. Huaraz is at about 10,000ft. I am not feeling the altitude but am having a little asthma acting up from the smog. After securing a nice little room we walked around town.

Our home in Huaraz.

 It is of course very poor here but a very fun place to be. There are short little chubby women everywhere in traditional bright clothes and distinctive cowboy type hats. The streets are lined with vendors selling all sorts of items. Of note I saw bags of live chickens and a cage of guinea pigs (they eat them).

Beautiful Huaraz: panoramic video below

Soccer in the streets

Andrew and I had Aji de Gallina which is sort of a soup bullion with noodles and a large piece of chicken inside. It reminded me of the Pho that I have been eating with Richard back in Reno. Andrew also had some coca tea today. I tasted it and it was very palatable. We are getting comfortable and oriented to the city and have a very secure place to stay which eases the nerves when you have large portion of your net worth in climbing gear stored there. I am pleasantly surprised to not really have to deal with begging and have felt very safe both here and yesterday in Lima despite being in the "bad part of town".

Tomorrow we are going to get food and supplies and find out about getting an "arrieros". Arrieros are porters with burros. Our guides say they cost about 3 dollars a day and about 1.75 per burro but we are required to provide a tent and feed them on the trip as well. The next day we have an acclimatization hike planned that will take us to over 15,000ft! That will be a new record for me.

I will keep you guys informed as I get more time, internet access, and will update with pictures if I can find a place that will upload them. As for now we are doing great.

Welcome to Desert Alpinist

Welcome You'll find first ascents, commentary, and random other things here from time to time about Red Rocks, Vegas, and other things I find interesting. Enjoy!